Skeletons, altars, and offerings – oh my! Día de los Muertos — Day of the Dead — is increasingly one of the most visible and easily identifiable parts of Mexican culture. It’s also a major draw for visitors looking to experience unique cultural traditions firsthand.
Celebrated on November 1st and 2nd, the holiday has become such a recognizable cultural icon that travelers visiting Mexico in October and early November will be hard-pressed to find a resort or hotel that doesn’t offer at least a nod to the festivities.
Finding the best and most authentic Day of the Dead celebrations means eschewing beachfront resorts for history-steeped towns and cities far from the country’s coastline.
The Roots of the Day of the Dead
Day of the Dead was born in the Americas from both indigenous and European traditions, fusing Aztec ceremonies honoring lost ancestors with Christianity’s All Saint’s Day and All Soul’s Day. Though many associate the Day of the Dead with Mexico, many Latin American countries celebrate a version of the holiday.
The 2017 debut of the Pixar movie Coco was just one of myriad ways the holiday has gained recognition and spurred intrigue in the past decade. However, this age-old holiday represents much more than just the skeletons, altars, and candles many associate with the celebration.
“Día de Muertos is not just a holiday; it’s a vibrant expression of love, memory, and cultural richness,” reflects Michael Näther, General Manager at Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel located in historic San Miguel de Allende in the heart of Mexico.
A Reason To Travel
The holiday is an increasingly popular reason to travel to Mexico, with more and more culturally curious travelers planning trips specifically around the event every year. In 2023, the holiday generated nearly 3.8 billion Mexican pesos — or about $192 million — for the hotel industry alone. Roughly 2.4 million tourists swarmed some of the most popular destinations in the country to experience celebrations for themselves.
Mexico City hotel occupancy rates reached nearly 70% in the days leading up to and during the Day of the Dead in 2023, with even more expected this year. In coastal Puerto Vallarta, also popular for its Day of the Dead celebrations, hotel occupancy reached 77% during what once was a travel off-season. For the estimated 40% of those traveling to learn about and experience another culture firsthand, this increasingly well-known holiday is an unmatched excuse to book a trip.
Authentic Celebration
Not every Day of the Dead celebration in Mexico is alike. While honoring the holiday’s historic roots, many celebrations have been born as a response to the growing profile of Día de los Muertos.
The now massively popular Día de los Muertos parade in Mexico City, for example, got its start in 2016. The event drew inspiration from a similar parade for the James Bond movie Spectre the previous year. Many of the country’s largest beachfront resorts put up an altar and offer sweet treats like the classic sugar-crusted pan de muerto, but their celebrations are far from original.
Travelers looking for an authentic celebration should head to destinations far from the coast, like San Miguel de Allende in Guanajuato. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Baroque and neoclassical architecture, colorful San Miguel de Allende is a visual feast with a rich artistic legacy. Travel + Leisure named it the best city in the world, an honor it has won multiple times in the past several years.
Celebrating in San Miguel de Allende
“In San Miguel de Allende, this time-honored tradition takes on a particularly enchanting form,” says Näther. Colorful altars dripping with golden marigolds, candles, and meaningful offerings fill the town’s main square, known as the Jardín Principal, leading up to the holiday. A covered Day of the Dead market is the place to purchase sugar skulls and other altar offerings. Meanwhile, parades and live music fill the streets in early November.
San Miguel de Allende’s Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel, goes all-out with its Day of the Dead celebrations. The hotel is itself a historic jewel, comprising six unique colonial mansions. Each exquisitely restored and artfully designed house immerses guests in all the richness that makes San Miguel de Allende a celebrated destination. It’s no wonder why Casa de Sierra Nevada has previously earned a spot on Travel + Leisure’s coveted list of the 100 best hotels in the world.
The property prepares a multi-day celebration for the Day of the Dead. “We embrace the heart and soul of this celebration with a special three-day program crafted to envelop guests in the authentic spirit of this cherished tradition,” says Näther. Feasts at the hotel’s Andanza and The Blue Bar celebrate culinary traditions with modern takes. DJ sets play into the night, and a brunch of Mexican classics awaits at the end of the festivities in the hotel’s sumptuous spaces. “It’s about creating a bridge between visitors and heritage, allowing them to experience the profound beauty of Dia de Muertos as part of our extended community.”
The hotel is a historic treasure but is also at the cutting edge of Mexico’s newest trends. The property’s Tunki Rooftop by Handshake is a collaboration with Mexico City-based speakeasy Handshake, rated No. 3 on the list of best bars in the world. Alongside handcrafted cocktails and sunset vistas over the city, Tunki Rooftop hosts “Tunki Talks” that brings visitors to hear from local artists, historians, and cultural leaders.
How and Where
Mexico’s Día de los Muertos experiences are as diverse and unique as the people who celebrate. Across town at NUMU Boutique Hotel in San Miguel de Allende is a sleek, modern property rooting its impressive Día de los Muertos celebrations in age-old culinary traditions.
Executive Chef Omar Tovar and his team invite guests to experience Guanajuato’s gastronomic roots with a special tasting menu specifically designed for the season. The experience includes a “Ceremonial Tortilla” made using a family seal passed down for generations. The menu comprises traditional local ingredients like roasted cactus and fried pumpkin flowers, as well as dishes like short rib barbacoa and mole. The experience concludes with a classic cajeta-stuffed pan de muerto and tequila-infused chocolate.
While there are different ways to celebrate the holiday from region to region and destination to destination, first-timers should consider staying in San Miguel de Allende. As one of the country’s most historic destinations, it provides an authentic cultural experience that cuts through the holiday hype straight to its authentic roots.
