I suggest you complete all the items on this list the day you bring a new pet home, whether it’s a hamster or a Great Dane, whether it’s a baby or fully grown, whether you’ve ever lost a pet or not. This is your pet’s best chance at being found if he or she is lost.
Keep all the information you assemble together in a safe place.
Microchip. Retain a copy of the pet’s complete registration. Keep registry contact numbers on your household emergency list. Remember to transfer pet-registration information to your name and contact info if the pet was chipped before you got it.
License. In most communities, you can license a pet before it’s the mandatory age (often six months), although the license may cost more if the pet is not spayed or neutered and has not yet had a rabies shot. Contact the licensing agency (animal control) in your locality for help.
ID tags. Include telephone contact numbers, but not necessarily your pet’s name. That information might help someone keep the dog (or think they could keep the dog) if it’s stolen or if it’s found by someone who might consider keeping a free pet. ID tags are a good alternative if you’re not able to license the pet immediately.
Photos. Keep current color photos of your pet—preferably a close-up of his face plus a full-body shot with some perspective to indicate the pet’s size in comparison to a familiar object. Update those photos regularly; it’s easy to do now with phone cameras! Remember to take new photos if your pet has just been groomed, trimmed for summer, or looks different than usual for some reason.
Description. Type out a full description of your pet, including height, weight, coloring, breed or mix, and whether the pet is spayed or neutered. As you get to know the pet, add information about the pet’s likelihood to “come to a stranger.” Include words that might be familiar to the pet to help someone who does not know him; for example, “Call him to come with the word ‘Here’ said in a happy voice!” Also as you get to know him, add any dislikes the pet has. “Afraid of tall men in hats, anyone with facial hair, small children, bigger dogs . . . ” This is all helpful information to someone who is trying to assist a lost animal!
Distinguishing marks. For your own records, list any identifying marks your pet has—whatever might distinguish him from another animal who looks similar. For example: “Black spot in middle of tongue, extra toes, heart-shaped dark fur on belly . . . ” Do not give this information in any public listing. Use it instead to make sure it’s actually your pet when someone calls you to say, “I found a pet that meets the description.” This is one control you have if it turns out you are dealing with a scammer, which can certainly happen. Be careful!
Emergency contacts. List telephone numbers for your veterinarian’s office, local pet emergency clinic, local animal control, all local animal shelters, friends and neighbors who know your pet, the microchip registry for your pet, and local rescue organizations for your type of pet, breed, or mix. In other words, phone numbers of anyone you can call the minute you know your pet is lost.
Flyers. If you’re really conscientious, you might mock up a lost pet flyer, complete with current photos and the other information I’ve suggested. True, preparing such a notice when you hope your pet will never be lost may seem like overachieving, but you will be very glad you did it the moment you realize your pet is nowhere to be found. You will need to act as fast as possible. Any preparation you can do before there is an emergency will save you very valuable time!
Pass on copies of all this information to anyone who cares for your pet in your absence, whether it’s a house-sitter in your home, the staff at your veterinary clinic, the supervisor of any boarding situation, or a relative who’s watching your pet while you are out of town.
Next week, suggestions on what to do when you realize your pet is lost!
