Does your dog take treats gently?
If not, try delivering treats to your dog by dropping them on the ground in front of you, placing them on a paper plate at your feet, or offering them in your open palm, the same way you feed sugar cubes to a horse. If children or elderly members of your family will be offering treats, please be absolutely sure your dog has excellent bite inhibition – in other words, that your dog knows never to bite down on human skin or clothing. It’s especially important to protect the easily injured hands of youngsters or frail adults. One accidental injury can be fatal – to your dog – and frightening to your family.
What treats are best to offer?
That depends! On your dog, of course. Every dog has favorites. First, you must figure out how various food treats rate for your particular dog. Usually, the dog’s regular kibble is the lowest value treat, because it’s something he eats daily. Often, the dog’s favorite treats are what we might call “human food” – meat, cheese, even some vegetables. In the middle of the dog’s list of favorites might be packaged treats like dog biscuits, dog jerky, flavored tidbits, or what I call tube meat – a soft version of your dog’s regular food that resembles a roll of salami. Tube meat can be kept frozen, cut into tiny pieces for rewards, even sprinkled on your dog’s kibble if he’s a picky eater. To find out what your dog likes best, conduct a taste test with a variety of treats!
To use treats in teaching your dog to come when called, remember that the dog will not receive a treat until he has come to you, close enough so that you can reach down to touch and to hold his collar, to attach his leash, to put him where you want him to be.
Fly-by treat-grabbing is not allowed!
To start: holding a high-value treat in your hand, show it to the dog, then step away from the dog a very small distance – a foot or two only. Immediately call the dog to you: “Here!” If the dog hesitates at all, lure him to you with the treat. Once he moves close enough that you can touch his collar, offer him the treat and praise him: “Good Here!” If he shows an eager response, increase the distance. If he’s unenthusiastic, consider why that might be happening. Do you need better treats? Is he afraid he might be punished? Is he simply not hungry at that time?
You’ll want to repeat this exercise many times so remember to keep the treats enticing but tiny! Don’t use a giant dog biscuit – break it up into small pieces. Your objective is a fast recall, not a fat dog! When you’re training frequently with treats, you may need to cut back on the dog’s regular meals.
Toys – do you know which toys are your dog’s favorites?
There are so many from which to choose! If all of your dog’s toys are always accessible to him, you may find he’s not particularly interested in them when you attempt to use one to encourage him to come when called. Consider the possibility of taking a few of his very favorite toys and making them less accessible – in other words, more valuable when they are offered.
Again, remember that unless your dog has excellent bite inhibition, toys – like treats – must be offered in a way that does not endanger the human making the offer. If your dog has not yet learned a Drop It or Give It, use multiple toys so that you will not have to argue with him over giving up the first one! Tennis balls (preferably ones made for dogs) can be thrown as a reward for coming when called but only after you have been able to take the dog by his collar – then throw the next ball as you release the collar. The chance to chase and retrieve a ball can be a very positive motivator for some dogs, but be sure you get a Come When Called first.
In some cases, simply being given the toy is enough reward. Throw a soft toy in the air, for example, then let your dog take it off to play. In a few minutes, produce another favorite toy and repeat the process. If your dog is uninterested in the second toy, don’t get mad – figure out why!
One of my favorite ways to teach Coming When Called involves multiple family members. It’s a chance to get the whole gang into the game, ensuring that your dog will listen to even the younger family members. Arm everyone old enough with treats or toys. Again, if your dog does not have good bite inhibition, consider how you will avoid accidents: deliver treats or toys safely, not by hand.
Play the game first inside, in a part of your home with the fewest distractions. Later, if you’ve had success, you can move the game outside to a fenced yard. Have the humans stand or sit in chairs in a small circle with the dog in the center. One adult starts by showing the dog a treat or toy, then calling the dog to come, touching and holding the dog’s collar when he gets there, then rewarding the dog with a treat. Go around the circle from one participant to the next, with each human repeating the process, then releasing the dog for the next recall. If you have a small child, sit the child in a parent’s lap or have the parent stand behind the child. The child will call the dog but the parent will reward the dog. That way, everyone should stay safe.
Eventually, the circle gets bigger and the dog has to run farther and faster.
This game is called a Round Robin Recall. It’s fun and educational for all!
One important rule to follow: quit when the dog still wants more. Do not wait until the dog is bored, or tired, or full. Stop on a success – your dog will be much more likely to want to play again.
NEXT WEEK: TIPS & TRICKS for TRAINING ALONE
