Last week, I suggested that the best way for two dogs to be introduced to each other is on neutral territory. First, at a distance, then closer and closer as they accept each other’s presence, and eventually with the dogs walking side by side, stopping briefly to sniff each other if they wish, then continuing.
This week, I’ll discuss what comes next: two dogs who have walked together and sniffed each other briefly during those walks now have the chance to visit each other in their own homes. Again, this process takes patience. Sure, we’d love for the two dogs to meet and greet successfully right off the bat, but we must remember that our goal is a successful meeting from the dogs’ point of view. That means both dogs must feel safe. Quit while you’re ahead, and always leave them wanting more!
Choose which dog’s home will be the location for the first visit.
Ideally, you will discuss how territorial you think each dog is about his or her home. For the first visit, I’d suggest picking the home of the dog who is less territorial—the one who is less likely to bark at strangers coming to the door, the one who is less likely to bark at other dogs passing by his fence.
Should either dog have a history that includes resource-guarding—of his food, his toys, or his humans—do not pick that dog’s home for your first visit! Should both dogs have resource-guarding issues, take it very, very easy on the introductions. Maybe you can continue to meet on more “neutral” territory, like on walks, rather than taking a chance on home visits.
Choose the outside area of the home where the dogs will meet.
Decide which outside area of your home you feel your dog is least protective of. For example, in your front yard, your dog may alert to passers-by because she can easily see them from there, but she may not bark or alert at all while in your back yard because she simply cannot see or hear passing people or dogs. In many cases, dogs have never before had doggy visitors in their back yards. If the yard is fenced securely and has no doggy next-door neighbors, that is a good choice. That is not true if you have noisy, obnoxious, fence-running doggy neighbors, however. There is too strong a likelihood that those neighboring dogs will interfere, making both your dog and your dog’s visitor uncomfortable.
Allow the visiting dog to have access to the outside area first.
Distract your dog inside the house so that she does not alert to the “unknown” visitor. Allow the visiting dog time to explore the outside area—on leash if it’s unfenced, off leash if it’s safely fenced and totally escape-proof. Once that’s done, leash the resident dog and take her outside. Initially, maintain a distance from the visiting dog, if possible without pulling your dog into a deceptively aggressive posture with the leash. In most cases, letting the visiting dog make the first friendly moves is advised. Since both owners have been walking together for some time before this meeting, they should have a good idea of how to interpret both dogs’ body language.
Determine whether or not both dogs should be off leash.
Keeping the dogs on leash at this point could produce some serious doggy frustration, for sure—if their intentions are friendly. But if their owners are not yet sure that the interaction will be peaceful, leashes should stay on for safety. Both owners should frequently call their dogs back to them (away from the other dog, please) and reward the dogs by allowing them to return to sniffing each other.
In most cases, it is wise to take only one dog off leash initially.
Which dog is first taken off leash depends on which dog is less assertive. In other words, if either of the two dogs could be considered “shyer,” “slower to warm up,” or “hesitant,” take that dog off leash first, so that it can take its time approaching the more confident dog. For safety’s sake, let the more hesitant dog continue to wear the leash, but let it drop and trail on the ground. (If necessary, step on the end of the leash to secure it, then pick it up.) Both dogs could wear long lines, too, which could be left dragging behind them. Yes, sometimes the lines get tangled, so watch out for that. Long lines in a yard with lots of trees or plantings probably won’t work well either.
When the dogs have had a chance to sniff each other, leash up.
Head out together (single file out the gate, please, no crowding) for another walk, with the dogs as close together as their behavior dictates. If they are doing well with each other, they can walk side by side. If you must walk through the house to leave, let the visiting dog go first. At this point, the two dogs should not be together inside the house. You’ve got some more work to do before that happens.
Very soon, have the dogs meet again. Same location, same drill.
Work up to having both dogs off leash—ideally, with both dragging leashes or long lines so that their owners can easily move them apart if necessary. Be very careful of tangled leashes or long lines. You do not want either dog ever to feel “tied to” its visitor, forced to stay close because it cannot escape. The success of these off-leash meetings comes from both dogs feeling safe at all times, and sometimes the best “safety” is the ability to get away from the other dog—if only for a breather. Let your dog decide, as much as possible, what interactions take place.
- Continue to practice recalls—calling your dog back to you.
- The reward for a quick recall is being allowed to play again.
- Short sessions, please, followed if possible by a walk together.
When both owners are completely satisfied with their dogs’ behavior to each other—and when both dogs are consistently offering fast and reliable recalls to their owners from interactions with the other dog—it’s time to consider whether or not the dogs should meet and greet inside your home.
Next week, I’ll suggest some ideas for successful visits in your home—a great start for lifelong doggy friendships and mutual dog-sitting arrangements in the future!
