Winter is in full force where I live, with temperatures below zero, snow, and ice. Dogs still need exercise, but their humans are wondering how best to protect their animal companions from the cold and from chemicals used on streets and sidewalks to melt ice or improve traction.
How easily are dog paws affected by cold? Not easily at all, according to recent research.
“Dogs’ paws, which lack the warm coverings on the rest of their bodies, have an intricate heat transfer system built in that immediately warms cold blood. Couple that system with a high amount of freeze-resistant connective tissue and fat located in the pads of the paw, and a dog’s paw rivals that of a penguin’s wing for the ability to stay warm in crazy-cold climates.
“Researchers in Japan recently studied the legs and paws of dogs and discovered that a ‘wonderful network’ of veins helped quickly circulate blood from the pad through the legs to warm it back up before sending it into the body, keeping the overall temperature of the dog steady. This same network has been found in penguins’ extremities, arctic foxes and even dolphins’ fins.
“Released in the journal Veterinary Dermatology, the researchers found that with arteries running right close to veins, warm blood actually passed by the cool blood, helping to speed warming even more. This system, dubbed “counter-current heat exchanger” also pulls warm blood to the paws and limits the amount of blood near the body’s cool skin.
“Earlier research had claimed that dogs have tissue in their feet that keep them from freezing all the way down to -35 degrees Celsius, meaning you can let your pet dog play freely with your pet penguin without fear of frozen paws.”
—Tim Newcomb
TIME Magazine
January 17, 2012
In many cases, the chemicals used on streets and sidewalks can pose more of a danger to dog paws than mild cold. Dogs lick their paws after a walk, and some deicers can be toxic if ingested. Salt pieces or pellets stick to paws, causing irritation especially to chapped areas. Salt sticks to the fur of the paws in ice balls, which dogs will lick, ingesting the salt, too. Salt can burn a dog’s paw pads, mouth, and even the digestive system, causing ulcers.
One obvious solution to chemicals on dog paws is to wash those paws carefully and thoroughly immediately after each walk, before the dog has a chance to lick. That sounds easy enough but, trust me, it often isn’t. Training your dog to stand still and cooperate with paw-washing can be a time-consuming process, best started when the animal first joins your family . . . and most likely to be successful if you were able to start when the dog was a pup.
Many owners opt instead for doggy boots.
Photo by Jill Gibbs
“The dog boot industry is a highly specialized one, with different styles of boots produced for different purposes.
“There are winter boots to insulate your dog’s feet from cold, damp, ice, snow, and salt; summer boots to shield your pup’s paws from the heat of pavement and asphalt, and hiking boots to protect him from the dangers of sharp rock, brambles, burrs, cacti, and foxtails. They can be used to give a tentative dog traction on slippery floors, to prevent scratches on hardwood floors and snags on carpets, and to deter digging. They can prevent chewing and licking of sores, bandages, and medications on the dog’s feet. There are even rubber boots that purport to keep your dog’s feet dry in rainy weather.
“The biggest dog boot challenge is keeping the little devils on their feet. Dogs don’t have much in the way of ankles, and a well-fitted boot must hug the ankle joint tightly without rubbing, constricting blood flow, or annoying the dog.
“The best boots offer a wide selection of sizes to allow for a good fit. The boot should fit fairly snugly while still providing ample room for the dog’s foot. It should slip onto the dog’s foot with relative ease, not slip off until you want it to, and be constructed of materials that are soft enough to conform to the shape of the foot and be comfortable for the dog, yet sturdy enough to stand up to the rigors of vigorous hiking.
“Price is always of interest to the cost-conscious dog owner, who can usually find ways to spend any extra cash on new dog toys and more treats. This is one category of product where it doesn’t pay to skimp. For the most part, the cheaper brands of boots are just that—cheap.”
—Pat Miller
Whole Dog Journal
What boot style is best for your dog and your winter walking needs? Here is a link to a thorough overview (from the AKC) of various winter boot styles:
http://www.akc.org/content/dog-care/articles/dog-boots-for-winter/
What if you’ve tried—and failed—at teaching your dog to wear boots?
“If you can’t find booties that fit well, or if your dog flat-out refuses to wear them, you can take other steps to protect his paws. As soon as he comes inside, soak his paws for a few seconds in a bowl of warm water, then dry them thoroughly. (If he’s a little guy, wipe down his legs and belly too.) You can also trim the fur between his toes to help reduce or prevent the accumulation of ice and snow there, which can cut the feet or cause your dog to limp. Help prevent cracked and bleeding paw pads by applying petroleum jelly or paw wax before your dog goes outside.”
—Marty Becker, DVM
Vetstreet.com
You’re not ready to give up on the boots yet? Good for you!
Next week, I’ll discuss fitting your dog’s new boots properly and encouraging your dog to gladly accept wearing boots, using only positive training methods over many short practice sessions. You’ll be ready for next winter!
