Travelers worldwide have had a love affair with La Dolce Vita in Italy for centuries. As over-tourism impacts popular destinations like Venice, Florence, Rome, and Cinque Terre, those seeking a quieter experience are turning to Umbria, Tuscany’s lesser-known counterpart. Here, they’ll discover the same natural beauty as Tuscany without the crowds of tourists.
According to a survey conducted by the Centro Studi Turistici of Florence for Assoturismo Confesercenti, 216 million tourists are expected to stay in Italy between June and August. With this influx of visitors, Umbria’s landlocked region 82 miles from Rome offers a welcome escape.
Foreigners visiting Italy stay an average of 8 days, while families with children extend their visits to 10 days. The main motivations for these travelers vary: the French prioritize relaxation and exploration, Americans seek adventure, and the Swiss look forward to reconnecting with family and friends.
A significant trend among tourists is the preference for customized experiences, with 67% of visitors opting to book their accommodations and transport independently. Swiss, German, and British tourists are particularly inclined toward independently organizing their holidays.
Tenuta di Murlo, owned by the same family for generations, is one of Italy’s most exclusive private country estates and ticks all the boxes for foreign vacationers. The property’s distinct landscape is fairytale-like, with rolling emerald hills, lush valleys, and ancient woodlands.
Exclusive Country Estate
While traditional tourism may involve bustling cities and crowded attractions, Tenuta di Murlo offers a different travel experience. Set in the heart of Umbria, this sprawling estate gives guests an exclusive glimpse into authentic rural Italian life.
Owners Alessio and Carlotta Carabba Tettamanti divide their time between Umbria and Rome, where their children attend school. Alessio, a lawyer by profession, serves as the property architect, while Carlotta is the creative force behind the interior design.
Her signature style is evident in every room, with a mix of original stone, vaulted wood ceilings, and bespoke pieces, creating a rustic yet contemporary aesthetic screaming stress-free luxury.
The 80 buildings on the estate, ranging from farmhouses to a frescoed church, were once utilized by agricultural workers. Following the Second World War, these workers abandoned their homes in favor of urban centers. The power couple averages one villa restoration annually and has lofty plans for a spa and other amenities.
Currently, 10 five-star villas operate like hotels without lobbies. Concierge service, room service, private pools, and daily housekeeping are all part of the package. The meticulously reconstructed Il Caldaro Restaurant sits atop the remnants of a 14th-century defensive tower. Today, locals pack the surprisingly inexpensive restaurant to enjoy an intoxicating, authentically Italian atmosphere.
Three deluxe suites sit at the East entrance of Tenuta di Murlo, seven miles from Il Caldaro and reception. Amenities include an 18-meter-long shared pool and morning breakfast at the Orangerie.
The rural locale means guests frequently encounter diverse wildlife, such as wild boars and hares, darting through the tall grass as they navigate the narrow, winding roads.
The Murlo estate offers unique experiences like truffle hunting in the surrounding forests or cooking classes with a private chef using ingredients from the organic garden. The goal is to “share a love of good food — Umbrian style.” This personalized taste of authentic Umbrian culture often means guests might never leave the estate’s boundaries but still gain a sense of place.
My family of four enjoyed a stay in the chic, newly completed four-bedroom Villa Penna, which has a separate pool house, pizza oven, and multiple outdoor areas. Each bedroom boasts a private bathroom. Living room windows provide unobstructed views of the rolling hills beyond.
Our showstopping private infinity pool was perfect for cooling off on hot summer days. When we finally managed to tear ourselves away from lounging poolside, we donned beekeeping suits and collected honey alongside the resident beekeeper with the help of our translator. A saccharine shot of honey was the reward for our efforts.
On another occasion, we made pasta from scratch with the restaurant manager’s mother (we called her “Nonna”), laughing as we struggled to roll out the dough just right. We learned to make tagliatelle and tortellini stuffed with Parmesan and ricotta cheese. We dined al fresco at Villa Penna, armed with two different sauces and a garden salad. My sons proclaimed our dinner “the best they’ve ever tasted,” fervently asserting that we needed a pasta machine to continue making fresh pasta at home.
The villas come in many sizes and layouts, perfect for couples on romantic getaways or large family reunions. Regardless of size, they all offer a luxurious and peaceful stay with one main theme: privacy.
The enchanting Villa Molinella feels similarly rustic-luxe, with a private pool, sauna, hot tub, and underground jacuzzi within the ancient vault of a restored 13th-century mill. Easily the most popular and smallest villa, it caters to two adults and overlooks the river.
Castiglione Ugolino is a 10-bedroom ancient castle and adjoining church dating back to the 11th century. Villa Subtilia is a beautiful 16th-century farmhouse with spectacular views from the infinity pool to the medieval castle of Antognolla and its 18-hole championship golf course.
Stealing Tuscany’s Thunder
Staring out across Murlo estate’s 18,000-acre property, with views of the Monte Tezio and Tiber Valley below, it’s easy to see why Umbria is known as Italy’s “Green Heart.” Its rolling hills, lush vineyards, and serene olive groves offer vistas similar to those of Tuscany, with a greater sense of untouched beauty.
While many celebrate Tuscany’s stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage, one of Umbria’s most compelling advantages is its tranquility. The region tends to attract fewer tourists, meaning visitors can explore picturesque villages without overwhelming crowds that frequently plague Tuscan hot spots like San Gimignano and Montepulciano.
Culinary enthusiasts will appreciate Umbria’s farm-to-table ethos. The local cuisine focuses on seasonal, high-quality ingredients from organic farms. This emphasis on authenticity extends to experiences where visitors can engage intimately with the producers.
Umbria’s affordability is a significant draw. From accommodations to dining options, travelers often find that Umbria offers better value than its more touristy neighbor.
Those wanting to explore beyond the Murlo estate can easily access Umbria’s charming hilltop towns of Perugia, Assisi, and Orvieto. The region is rich in history, and Tenuta di Murlo itself sits on an ancient Etruscan settlement.
The sophisticated Etruscan civilization established numerous sites spanning the region’s fertile landscapes. Key archaeological sites, including Perugia and Orvieto, reveal remnants of intricate urban planning, impressive architecture, and vibrant cultural practices. Ongoing cultural influences in Umbria’s art, architecture, and local traditions underscore the profound historical significance attracting scholars and tourists alike.
A stay at Tenuta di Murlo is something special, an opportunity to experience true Italian country living. While Tuscany may be synonymous with Italy’s charm, Umbria offers the simple pleasures of a region whose beauty remains largely unexplored. As responsible travelers, it is up to us to support and preserve il Bel Paese — “the beautiful country” — for future generations of travelers.
