We had a big wind storm where I live about a month ago. The pets and I were without power for six days. We have no alternate source of heating, so I piled numerous quilts and blankets on the bed and dove under it all . . . with my 14-year-old golden retriever and my cat.
My younger, very furry big dog slept in his kennel with an old fluffy bathrobe of mine added to his cozy bed, and the kennel itself covered with a big thick towel to retain warmth. My tiny terrier cross, hairless of belly and only five pounds in weight, wore one of her little sweatshirts and was ensconced in her small crate with so much fleece I could hardly see her. That kennel, too, was covered—in her case, with a couple of old sweaters—to keep all the warmth inside.
My ferrets already had lots of cozy sleeping places in their big cage, but I noticed that during the day, they were much more active than usual—keeping warm by running around—and they ate about three times more than usual every single day until the power came back on!
I supplemented all the pets with extra food and goodies. They ate better than I did! I was eventually fed by my wonderful neighbors who brought me Triscuits and soft cheese, canned fruit, and tuna. Another friend traveled across town to bring me emergency supplies for the pets—canned dog food, canned cat food, and cans of lovely salmon and tuna. My biggest thrill during the power outage was my first cup of hot coffee, again courtesy of my neighbors (they have a gas stove), and an entire huge container of very hot water, which I used for dog meals and for bathing myself!
I hope you never have to go through a power outage when the temperatures are below freezing. It’s really not fun at all. However, the experience did make me think harder about how best to keep my pets happy and healthy during cold weather. With the holidays ahead and winter not even yet started (at least here), I’ve complied some suggestions especially for pet owners who are new to the game. I hope you’ll find some ideas you may not have read about before plus some reminders of what you already know!
Outdoor Animals
This category does not include your household pets. I read a poster recently that said, “If it’s too cold for you, it’s too cold for them,” referring to cats and dogs that usually stay outside. I agree. Even dogs that love cold weather need access to a warm house. They may choose to sleep in a cooler area inside, but they definitely need that option. Should your dog not be allowed in the house, you must provide a reliably heated alternative, whether it’s an igloo-style dog house or a kennel inside a heated garage, with a source of water always available. (Yes, there are heated water bowls!)
For the critters in your neighborhood that aren’t household pets, providing a source of easily accessible water is a blessing. Heated birdbaths and heated water bowls come to mind. Feeding birds and squirrels, though, can also attract other less-welcome animal visitors to your yard (like skunks), so weigh the benefits versus the drawbacks. Do you live in a rural—or even urban—area where larger wild animals have access to your yard . . . like coyotes or bears? Then feeding anybody outside is probably not a good idea!
Walking Your Dog
You want to keep up regular walks with your dog during the winter weather? Good plan! The exercise and fresh crisp air will likely wear him out enough that he will be less demanding of attention inside while you’re busy with holiday preparation, company, or working from home. But keep in mind that walking in snow or on ice can be much harder work than walking on a spring day! Consider shorter walks, more often, or playing games in your own yard that will wear off excess energy and boredom. I particularly enjoy throwing snowballs into piles of snow and watching my dogs snuffle around trying to find them.
When you come inside from outdoor walks or play, pay very close attention to your dog’s paws. I suggest a weekly trimming of the paw fur—both around the toes and between the pads—for hairy-footed dogs like all three of mine. Less fur means fewer “ice balls” between the pads! Less fur makes it much easier to remove the ice balls that do stick to the pads, too. Do not make your dog hobble around trying to walk with ice balls stuck in his feet. Remove your gloves or mittens, take one paw at a time in your hand, feel between the pads for stuck-on ice, and hold your fingers around the ice for long enough to melt it.
You may have walked with your dog on streets or sidewalks that have been treated with de-icing chemicals. Most of those chemicals are very bad for your dog to ingest, so see to those paws the minute you step back into your home. Take a pan of warm water, put each foot in separately, wash and rinse that paw thoroughly, then dry with a towel. Yes, it’s a hassle, but the more often you do it, the easier it becomes. Most dogs cooperate once they understand it doesn’t hurt!
Your own safety when walking or playing with your dog outside in snowy, icy, slippery weather is also very important. You may not be the steadiest walker, and you sure don’t want to ruin your whole winter season with a fall that could badly injure or immobilize you. Instead, consider the use of one of the many devices that allow you to slip chains or cleats over your shoes or boots when you’re walking outside. Also, think about carrying a walking aid—a ski pole is a possibility—that allows you to balance better in slippery conditions.
Dogs as well as humans can wear boots! It’s a good idea to practice boot– or paw-protector–wearing with your dog before the need is great; start in the summer. The process for accustoming your dog to wearing boots is very similar to the process of getting him used to wearing a head halter or harness that is new to him. Make very sure that the sight of the boots predicts a good time, not a struggle! By the time your dog really needs those boots, he will be used to the process and good at walking in them.
Dog coats are very popular now. Directions are widely available online for making cold-weather “clothes” for dogs from old sweaters or sweatshirts of your own, sewing expertise not needed. As with any item your dog can wear, you must make sure the fit does not impede or annoy the dog. The clothing will do no good if it’s constantly slipping off, or if your dog is so bothered by it that he removes it himself. You can spend a fortune on stylish outfits for Fido but they do him no good stuck in a box at home because they’re too much of a hassle to use. Again, it’s a good idea to get your dog used to wearing whatever clothing you’ve provided before it’s really needed!
Inside the House
I have a tiny dog with no fur on her belly. She wears sweatshirts in the house! I’m sure it makes her more comfortable to have an extra layer of insulation, but I also have to remember to change that sweatshirt regularly. If I don’t, the skin and fur underneath suffer. For wearing most of the time, shirts and sweaters for dogs should not be designed so they must be removed when the dog goes potty. Trust me, you want the dog’s ability to potty to be unimpeded at all times!
Animals in a well-heated house may still need additional sources of heat all their own, especially if they are frail, ill, or elderly. Consider a heated bed, for instance; many styles are available. I’m not particularly fond of plug-in heated beds for several reasons. First, the expense; second, the possibility they may be unplugged by accident; third, the small chance that “something may go wrong.” I prefer beds or pads that are heated elsewhere. I have a round disc the shape of a very thick frisbee that you heat by microwaving, then put inside a fabric cover and place in the pet’s bed. The pet can choose how close to the heat it wants to be, and the pad stays warm for hours. I also have heat-reflecting pads—even one in my ferret cage—that are designed to retain the heat of the pet lying on them, increasing the warmth all around. Again, the pet chooses how close to the heat to lie.
Crates (airline shipping kennels) can also be winterized to retain heat. Add more bedding and cover the sides of the crate, where there are grated “windows,” with blankets or towels to hold in the warmth the animal himself generates. Check regularly to make sure the pet is not overheated, which he might demonstrate by panting or restless movements indicating he wants out. When you’re sure the pet is too hot, remove some of the “insulation” from the outside of the kennel so he’ll be comfortable.
Outside the House
Keep access to your fenced yard as clear as possible. Shovel a path for your dog to get where he needs to go to potty . . . especially if you have a deck or protected area near the house where you don’t want him to potty! This is especially important for small or short dogs, who might otherwise tend to take the path of least resistance and end up pottying on your deck even after winter’s over!
I have made an informal “covered” area for my little dog very close to our back steps. I moved two wooden picnic tables together so she can dive under them to potty in a place that’s bound to have less snow and more cover for the tiny princess (who’s not at all fond of inclement weather). The picnic tables live outside year-round anyway, so during the winter they still have a purpose.
I use “ice breaker” pads on my back steps—rubberish mats with gel inside. When the weight of a human steps on the mats, the ice on the mats breaks up. That makes it much easier for me to clear the steps, often even without shoveling. I do not use even pet-safe de-ice on the steps my dogs use to access the back yard. One year, I tried spreading straw at the bottom of my back steps to provide better footing for them, but that turned out to be a very poor idea . . . since, at the time, all my dogs were long-haired. Yes, I ended up with more straw inside the house than out. It came in every time the dogs did, carried in large quantities on their fur!
Safety with Food and Presents
It can’t be said too often: no packages containing food of any kind can be left in any area that might possibly be accessible to your pets. I have heard too many horror stories over the years, a number of which involved boxes of chocolate candy. Don’t assume that your pet knows that chocolate is poisonous to him. He doesn’t! It smells good, it smells interesting—he will go for it. I had clients once whose two miniature poodles managed somehow to climb a tall armoire and knock a two-pound box of See’s Candy onto the floor. Needless to say, they got into the box and ate a lot of it. Nobody wants to spend a winter holiday with a poisoned dog at pet emergency!
Your dog or cat has never “gotten into anything” before? There is always a first time. When that time comes, you will regret your easy assumption that it could never happen to your Fluffy or Fido. Yes, it could. Don’t end up having to blame your own failure to acknowledge reality for your pet’s health crisis! Take every safety precaution possible, and keep your veterinary clinic and the closest pet emergency clinic on your speed dial—just in case!
